New York City has a way of seducing you with its energy. The constant hum of activity, the endless stream of opportunities, and the sense that you’re living at the center of the universe—it’s intoxicating. But for many of us, that comes at a cost. We trade sprawling suburban backyards and quiet evenings for apartments where the closest thing to private outdoor space might be a fire escape.
When the COVID-19 pandemic hit and the city locked down, that trade-off suddenly felt much heavier. After months of confinement in our Brooklyn apartment, the thing that kept me sane was our small backyard, a space we had lovingly shaped over the years into a little urban retreat. It became our haven for summer grilling, outdoor birthday parties, and evenings spent with good music and even better company. But after three months, even our sanctuary started to feel stifling. I knew I needed a change of scenery—space to breathe, to be quiet, and to see something beyond city blocks.
The Search for Escape
Convincing T to leave the city wasn’t too hard; the real challenge was finding the right place. We wanted somewhere close enough to New York to avoid a long travel day but far enough that we could truly disconnect. More importantly, it had to be peaceful—no bustling crowds, no packed streets. A little scrolling through Instagram and some digging on TripAdvisor eventually led us to the Catskills, that storied mountain escape beloved by generations of New Yorkers.
At first, we thought about staying in Woodstock, with its artsy history and charming shops. But we realized it might be a little too busy for what we needed. Social distancing was still a priority, and we craved stillness. That’s when we stumbled upon Phoenicia, a smaller town with fewer people and, as it turned out, exactly the kind of quiet charm we were searching for.
The Graham & Co: A Hidden Gem
Our home base became The Graham & Co., a boutique 20-room hotel right off Main Street in Phoenicia. From the photos, it looked unpretentious and inviting, and in person, it was even better. Nestled at the base of Hunter Mountain and bordered by a tranquil creek, the hotel struck that perfect balance of rustic charm and modern comfort.
We booked a bungalow, and from the moment we arrived, I felt the weight of the city lift off my shoulders. The sound of the creek outside our room became a sort of soundtrack for our stay—gentle, soothing, and constant.
The property itself spans more than three acres, which felt like a luxury in the era of social distancing. There was plenty of space to spread out without feeling crowded. We spent lazy afternoons swaying in hammocks, glasses of wine in hand, and rediscovered the joy of doing absolutely nothing. The swimming pool provided the perfect spot for cooling off after hikes, and the badminton court gave us an excuse to indulge guilt-free in the evening’s s’mores by the fire pit. The hotel even supplies charcoal grills for impromptu cookouts, picnic areas for wine and sandwiches, and complimentary bicycles to explore town. It felt less like staying at a hotel and more like being welcomed into a thoughtfully curated retreat.
A Rhythm of Rest
What struck me most about our time at The Graham & Co. was the rhythm we fell into—slow, deliberate, and restorative. Mornings began with reading on the porch, the sound of the creek in the background. Afternoons were for sightseeing and gentle hikes, discovering pockets of natural beauty we’d only seen in photos. Evenings were spent at the pool, easing into twilight, before settling under star-dappled skies by the fire pit.
We deliberately booked our stay during the week to minimize contact with other guests, and it worked. We rarely crossed paths with people, and when we did, there was always more than enough space to keep our distance. For someone who had grown increasingly anxious in crowded city settings, the sense of space and quiet was a gift.
Another unexpected luxury? The lack of cell service. While the hotel’s WiFi was strong enough for FaceTime calls and the occasional conference meeting, the absence of constant notifications made it easier to unplug. It forced me to step back from the noise and simply be present.
Exploring Beyond the Hotel
Though we could have happily spent all our time tucked away at the hotel, Phoenicia and its surroundings offered plenty to explore. The area is perfect for outdoor lovers: fishing, tubing, hiking trails, and walks along the Ashokan Reservoir, which happens to be where New York City gets its drinking water. Standing at the reservoir, taking in the sweeping views, it struck me how connected the city and upstate truly are—even the water we drink in Brooklyn begins its journey here.
For those who crave a bit more buzz, Woodstock is just a 25-minute drive away. It offers a livelier scene with shops, cafes, and cultural stops, but we were content to keep things quiet. This trip wasn’t about doing everything—it was about slowing down and savoring the simple things.
A Reminder to Unwind
By the end of our five-day, four-night stay, I felt refreshed in a way I hadn’t in months. The Catskills gave us room to breathe, to move at our own pace, and to reconnect with the joy of unhurried living. The Graham & Co. wasn’t just a place to stay; it was a reminder that sometimes you don’t have to go far to feel a world away.
Back in New York, life quickly resumed its usual rhythm—the sirens, the subway, the endless hustle. But now, I know that escape is just a short drive north, waiting with hammocks, fire pits, and the gentle rush of a creek. And sometimes, that’s all you need.
